Our First Week in St. Thomas: Flags, Friends, and Fish
Our first official week in St. Thomas began properly, with Kirsten hoisting the USVI courtesy flag. Maritime protocol was followed to the letter. Aesthetic protocol was… generously exceeded. Let’s just say the flag wasn’t the only thing drawing attention, and Moonfleet immediately felt welcomed into the territory.
One of the highlights of the week was meeting our new friends Gene and Mary Kral. We were treated to a wonderful dinner at Cuvée, where the wine flowed freely and the conversation even more so. Gene and I spent most of the evening enthusiastically discussing boat mechanical systems and tools, which is apparently a universal language spoken only by men of a certain age and disposition. Mary and Kirsten exchanged knowing looks and rolled their eyes with the seasoned grace of women who have seen this movie before. We also met their daughter Marie, who was lovely and energetic.
We spent four comfortable days at Crown Bay Marina, which turned out to be an excellent stop. It has everything a captain could want: a well-stocked chandlery where I responsibly purchased cleaners, dinghy stern anchor chain, and a few bolts. Because everyone knows you never don’t need bolts. There’s also a solid restaurant on-site and even a dog spa complete with treats, toys, and grooming services. We passed on the grooming, but let’s just say Santa may be smuggling something aboard for Gypsy the Sea Dog.
The marina itself is immaculate, surrounded by mega yachts that made Moonfleet look like their tender. One yacht, memorably named “Dumb Ass,” left us wondering whether the name reflected the owner’s personality or their financial advisor’s honesty.
A short walk brought us to Pueblo’s, a well-stocked grocery store where we happily replenished supplies without needing a taxi, donkey, or small miracle….I may have snuck a gallon of French Vanilla ice cream in the bag, shhhh
Gene also graciously gave us a tour of their home on the north side of the mountain. The view was, without exaggeration, the most breathtaking and envy-inducing vista we’ve ever seen. It was the kind of view that makes you quietly reassess every life decision you’ve ever made.
Meanwhile, Kirsten was on high alert awaiting the arrival of her daughter Elsa, monitoring flight statuses with near air-traffic-control intensity. Elsa arrived safely from London via San Juan and then St. Thomas, though her luggage took an unscheduled sabbatical. The delay was likely caused by suspicious quantities of contraband English food hidden in strategic corners of her bags.
After four days, we left the marina and went searching for a peaceful anchorage, eventually dropping the hook right off the seawall in Charlotte Amalie Harbor. It turned out to be less “serene Caribbean night” and more “downtown Manhattan with waves.” Lights, noise, and general urban enthusiasm continued all night long. Still, it was safe, and we enjoyed walking the waterfront while Kirsten and Elsa fulfilled the obligatory tourist shopping ritual for things men universally fail to understand.
The next day, we relocated to Red Hook so Gypsy could attend her vet appointment to secure an up-to-date health certificate for BVI clearance. She is in excellent health, though clearly unimpressed by what can only be described as an invasive inspection involving flashlights, probing fingers, and things placed down her throat. The vet pronounced her in amazing condition. We credit a balanced diet, good exercise, and possibly trace amounts of sea rum.
Now, at last, we’re anchored off Christmas Cove, where the pace has slowed to exactly what it should be. The water is clear emerald, the fish are plentiful, and the water toys are finally out. Today is reserved for swimming, snorkeling, doggy beach time and the radical act of doing absolutely nothing on a schedule.
This cove is home to the famous Pizza PI, a boat turned pizzeria / floating bar… in fact the second I publish this article we will dingy over to collect the pizza we ordered via txt…YUMM!
A strong start to St. Thomas. Flags flown, friendships made, bolts acquired, and sanity restored.
Cap’n SF sends